A few posts back, I shared some instructions for a disappearing nine patch quilt top made using two layer cakes. That quilt used the traditional way of “diasappearing” the nine patch block by cutting it into four square quarters. I briefly mentioned that you could make a smaller quilt using one layer cake and that there are other ways to cut the nine patch block before rearranging it. That brief mention was not by chance, but it was part of my plan all along. This quilt top uses both of those concepts.
***In case you are new to quilting, a layer cake is a pack of pre-cut 10 inch squares. There are typically 42 squares in a pack. They are available in both solids and coordinating prints.
Since I’m not sure what this style block is actually called or if it even has an official name, I’ve decided to call it diagonal disappearing nine patch. Creative names are fun, but sometimes you just need a simple, self explanatory name.
What you need
-Fabric requirements:
Quilt top = a layer cake – I used “Strawberry Jam” by Corey Yoder for Moda Fabrics
Backing = 3.25 yards – you will have some left over
Binding = 1/2 yard – this is using width of fabric strips cut at 2.5 inches wide
Batting = I usually use warm and white
-Tools:
Rotary cutter
Scissors
Cutting mat
Ruler – I use a 6″x24″ ruler for this one because the 9 patch blocks are so large
Thread
Sewing Machine
Alright then, now let’s make this quilt top
You should be aware that I’m not a pattern writer (at least not yet). So, there won’t be a PDF that you have to download for this one. Just some good old fashioned step by step instructions with pictures.
Step 1
Make your nine patch blocks.
Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, assemble your nine patch blocks as shown in the picture.
You will make four of these nine patch blocks. There will be six layer cake squares left over when you are finished making all the nine patches.
Finger press the seams of each row in opposite directions so that the seams will nest. With the seams pressed in opposite directions, you can rub the fabric between your finger and thumb and feel when the seams line up. If that didn’t make sense, watch me doing that in the video below.
See how I’m lining up those pressed seams? This makes for some pretty seams that line up nicely.
I freely admit that I don’t like pinning anymore than any other quilter, maybe even a little less than most, but once you have that lined up, it helps to place one pin just before and one pin just after that nested seam as shown in the picture to the right.
Just like in the previous disappearing nine patch, it’s a good idea to press the blocks to flatten out the seams. If your blocks are laying nice and flat, you’ll get more accurate cuts in Step 2.
Step 2
Cut your nine patch blocks in half diagonally in one direction and then again in the opposite direction. This will form four triangles as shown in the picture below. Repeat this process with all four of your nine patch blocks. I like to keep the four triangles from each block together for the next step.
Step 3
This is really combining two steps here: rearranging your triangles to form your new blocks and laying out your quilt.
Before swapping any triangles around, I like to lay the unswapped triangles out in my layout area as shown in the picture to the left. I should probably clarify what I mean when I say “my layout area”. My layout area is what I have decided to call the floor space in our game room area. I have been known to move all the games to the corner and spread quilt blocks, tops, batting, and such in there. I imagine this is probably par for the course when you have a quilter in your house.
Anyway, back on topic. Now that you have those layed out unswapped, you can rearrange the triangles until you have a layout that you like. Once you have the triangles arranged the way you want them, take a picture with your phone so that you have something to look back at while you are sewing your blocks together. I know it sounds like I’m skipping a step with laying out the quilt before all the blocks are sewn back together, but read on. Hopefully it will make sense.
Step 4
Sew your rearranged triangles together.
The picture on the right shows some triangles that I swapped around to form a new block.
It doesn’t matter which section you sew together first, but for the purpose of explaining this, we’ll start with the left triangle and the top triangle. Put them pretty sides together, nest the seams, and sew them together with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Repeat this process with the bottom triangle and the right triangle.
Just in case that didn’t make sense, here’s a visual of how your block should look at this point.
You now have two right angle triangles, so it’s time to sew them together to get our final block.
Put those two right angel triangles right sides together, lining them up along that long seam in the middle. Nest the seams to get them to match up nicely, and sew them together with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Take a minute to admire you new block. It should look something like the picture on the left.
Ahh, isn’t she lovely?…
Now, that we’ve admired it, here’s a pontential downside. With this type block, you will lose the points at the spots where all the outside blocks meet. It does make some interesting new points that I think look pretty cool, but I know some people are bothered by losing points even in the name of creating more visual interest. If this is you, then this is probably not the quilt block for you, because as far as I can tell there is no way around this with a diagonal disappearing nine patch block.
I zoomed in on one of the corners so you can see what I mean by losing your points. The points from the two strawberry print squares are lost in the seam allowance. The new points it made are interesting, but it’s all personal preference here.
I usually feel like I have failed my points when they are lost in the seam allowance, but in this case, I like it.
Getting back on track here… Now that we know how to sew our final blocks together, repeat it with the other three blocks.
Step 5
Sew all you blocks together with a 1/4″ seam allowance. There are only four of them, and they’re quite large, so this step should go quickly.
The quilt top is all done! Baste it, quilt it however you want to, and bind it.
The finished quilt top will be about 54″x54″. Just remember that cotton shrinks, so after you quilt and bind it and get it in the wash for the first time, you will lose some area.
There’s that shot of the finished quilt top one more time. I love how it forms all those neat little secondary blocks.
At first glance, I notice the four large on point squares in the center. They jump out more than our four blocks, and I have to make myself see the four blocks.
There’s also a bonus pinwheel in center of the quilt, and I do love some pinwheels!
I have some customs to finish up before I can quilt this. So, for anyone out there who’s really wanting to see this, I will make a post on the finished quilt as soon as a get my custom orders all caught up.
As always, thank you for taking the time to read my blog. I hope you found these instructions useful.
If you have any questions or concerns, you can email me or leave me a comment.
